After a long absence (nearly a year…), I am back to my beloved blog. Lots of changes, most importantly … a new sewing room! So if you are after fresh sewing room ideas, read on.

Why away so long?

Well, a lot happened in a year! We finished building a house and moved in, which seems minor when put on paper but was a huge life challenge . The fact that we knocked down our previous home to build a new one and moved for 18 months to a rental I hated did obviously not help…

That said, all is good now. I am still buying furniture like there is no tomorrow but we are laregely settled, so time to go back to sewing and blogging!

A new sewing room: from concept…

I was lucky enough to have a sewing room in our previous house, but it doubled (well, tripled) as our family office and guest bedroom, so no room for a cutting table or an ironing space. Also, I had designed the sewing space when I had far less fabric and only one single machine… Ah ah ah, these time are long past!!!

So the new sewing room needed to include:

• a proper cutting table;
• lots (and lots and lots) of storage room for fabric;
• a large desk to accomodate 4 machines (sewing, embroidery, overlocker and xx)

It also needed to double-up as my personal office. So even more desk space! And did I mention I am a bit OCD? So as much as possible hidden from sight please.

So let’s look at the original sketch I drew:

… which over the months translated into a 2-D plan:

… and after more months into 3-D visuals:

… to reality

And now the sewing room in the flesh – come in!

I am a pink and purple girl so I deliberately forced myself to chose neutral colours for the furniture so I could go crazy with paintings and accessories.

The huge desk space is perfect and I definitely use 100% of its capacity. The three under-desk drawer units allow me to have my needed accessories handy.

I have a storage unit above the desk, which I adore. The first section is for all my sewing notions and the other three for my sewing patterns, all neatly stored in plastic jackets and then in classified folders.

I wish the cutting table was a bit longer and wider, but at 1×1.85m (40x73in) it is not bad and the absolute maximum I could accommodate in the space.

The large drawers underneath the folding table and directly facing it are all for fabric storage. I have 12 in total and I try and split fabric by composition. Despite my extensive stash, there is still a lot of room left for future purchase. Not sure it is such a good thing…

The tall units allows for extra storage and are not full either, yes!! You can see that this is where I store my mini ironing table and my iron – no matter how much I use them, I definitely cannot bear the constant sight of these!

I am still thinking about a few additions for this room. I have just ordered a full-size mirror and a corner hanging unit to be able to hang my just-finished makes (instead of pilling them on the mannequin). I would also love a small round rug and a lounging chair but all in its time…

Ideas to furnish a sewing room on a budget

If you would like to reproduce the ideas I’ve used for my sewing room but don’t want to spend on custom furniture, here are a few suggestions – coming directly from what I used in our rental house.

For the cutting table, I used 2 Tornviken IKEA kitchen islands – you can have them side by side or back to back to create a large cutting space; and they have storage underneath for sewing notions.

For the desk, I used the Lagkapten table top (in 200x60cm but it exists in smaller lengths), combined with one Alex drawer unit and the Hilver desk legs. I liked this desk so much that all my children asked for a similar one, so we now have them scattered around the house.

And for fabric storage I used the Platsa cupboards with the Fonnes doors. They are in no way as good quality as the Pax system, but much cheaper and easier to assemble (or disassemble, as I seem to be continually doing). All these have now been reused in the basement of the new house.

Ready to sew!

So now that I have introduced you to my new sewing space, I’m ready to show you all my backlog of creations of the past year. Still figuring out how to do this without boring you to death though so suggestions welcome!

Very much like my recent Joan wiggle dress, this one had a long gestation period… In this article, I review in details the B6048 vintage dress pattern. This includes talking about the three details I adore about this dress; and the many positives and very few negatives of this pattern. I also explain how I made a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA); and how I sew silk dupioni . But first let me show you my dress.

B6018 pattern description: three details I love

The B6018 dress is a Butterick re-edited vintage pattern from 1952. As such, it has none of the downsides of vintage patterns (weird sizing and light instructions anyone?) but all of the upsides. The sizing is completely in line with the contemporary McCall’s, Vogue, Butterick and Simplicity patterns, so if you have been sewing as many as these as me you know exactly which size to pick. The style is 100% 1950’s glamour, with a super fitted bodice and a gorgeous full dress.

Here are the pattern envelope and line art:

Despite the unwillingness of the line art picture to be centred (arrrggghhh!!!), you can see that the originality of this dress lies in the fact the bodice/ skirt split line is right under the bust. But unlike most empire-line dresses, the skirt is very fitted up to the waist, creating a very flattering elongated effect. This is definitely my favourite aspect of this pattern.

Another lovely detail is the turned-up raised collar of view A, which is a feature you rarely see on modern patterns, and which is definitely easier to sew than is seems.

The third detail I really like is the shaped cuffs – but I definitely did not like the technique recommended to sew them!

B6018 pattern review: positives and negatives

As you guessed, they are many things I like about this pattern… and very few I dislike!

On the positive side:

• The 1950’s style is absolutely spot on – not surprising for a pattern from the 1950’s though…
• This dress is a reasonably easy make and the instructions are crystal-clear.
• The sizing is the usual McCall’s/ Vogue/ Butterick, which is always perfect for me. I cut my usual size 10 (from my UK size 8, FR 36, US 2). I made no adjustment except for a FBA (more on this later).

On the negative side, I really did not like the way the sleeve cuffs were put together so I dug out my V8379 pattern and fiddled a bit. Also, the pattern does not come with custom bust cups, so if you’re not a B cup you will have to make either a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA) or a Full Bust adjustment (FBA) – here is how I made the later.

Making a FBA for the B6018 pattern

I an an E bust cup, so not making a FBA for this pattern would have been pure suicide. To be honest, I’ve come to realise that it is actually pure suicide for all patterns but sometimes I am just lazy…

Thankfully, the FBA was a reasonably easy process, as the front piece of the pattern has two bust darts: one on the side and one at the waist line. Here is a picture of my modified pattern piece.

Overall, the FBA involves:

• Drawing 3 lines: 2 from the top of each dart and 1 from the sleeve head, all converging to the bust apex.
• Cutting along these lines to be able to insert 2.5cm (for my E cup) of extra space.
• Lengthening the right side (on this picture) to match the left.
• Redrawing the end of the two darts.
• Making a quick toile to check all is well.
• And then you cutting into your precious fabric and getting a perfect fit!

I posted a video of the FBA process on my Instagram account so I would advise you go and have a look if you need more visuals.

Sewing the B6018 dress on silk dupioni

As you know, I am a huge fabric snob and I would live in silk dresses if I could.

I used to be really scared about sewing silk, for all it delicacy and slipperiness (if such a word exists). But silk dupioni is actually neither slippery nor very delicate: it is actually quite good weight and very stable to sew.

My key advice (for any silk fabric) is to use a Microtex needle – 80 is a good size for silk dupioni, and then 60-70 for lighter silks. Microtex needles have a very sharp end so they do no pull out the delicate silk fibres.

I also rarely use my overlocker to finish raw edges on silk, I prefer a zigzag stich on my sewing machine.

My last bit of advice on silk dupioni: beware the fabric weight! I did not and the fabric for this dress is actually a bit heavy for my taste – nothing horrible but it just makes it a bit too formal.

Conclusion

Although I find this dress a bit too formal for everyday wear, even on my standard, I am absolutely delighted with this pattern and very keen to try an version in a lighter fabric.

After eying this pattern for far too long, I have finally taken the plunge and sewn it. In this article, I review in details the Joan Wiggle Dress pattern by Charm Patterns. I tell you where to find it. And I give you my opinion on the best fabrics to use for this dress. But first let me introduce you to my latest make.

Where to find the Joan Wiggle dress pattern

I like to think that this pattern is exclusive, as it is a bit like a Thermomix (another obsession of mine). You cannot readily buy it in physical or online shops. It is only available to Gertie’s Patreon members, who pay a monthly fee for access.

To be honest, the idea of a monthly membership really bugged me initially. But seeing all the beautiful patterns available – such as the Brooklyn Jacket or the Swing Coat only to name the one I have sewn up to now – was just too tempting.

I finally became a patron and I am so glad I did. The monthly fee is extremely reasonable, starting at £5.50/month. For this, you get monthly pattern releases; access to all past patterns; and incredible instructions, both written and video for each release. I am really in awe at the incredible work Gertie does!

Joan Wiggle Dress pattern review

What is the Joan Wiggle dress?

The Joan Wiggle dress is a close-fitted dress (or top) with two bodice options: deep-plunge or high-neck; and a straight, below-the-knee skirt.

Both versions of the dress sewn by Gertie look equally amazing. I was initially very tempted by the deep-plunge version… but then chickened out, wondering how to wear a bra with it… So my dress is the high-neck version.

Joan Wiggle dress pattern (many) positives

There are many things I like about this pattern (and very few I dislike):

• This dress is extremely easy to sew. Once the pattern is printed and cut (I NEVER print and tape, I always order the A0), it takes about 2 hours to put together. Or more if like me, you have no idea about how to use your new coverstitch machine but you really want to try… No comment!
• Gertie’s explanation are crystal clear – both written and video. I usually stick to instruction manuals but I found the video so pleasant I actually watched it all!
• The shape is incredibly flattering yet practical enough to walk in. The dress is nicely fitted at the bust and waist but then becomes straighter. This means it is not overly tight around the hips (thank God!); and there is comfortable room for walking at the knee level.

• I really like the the middle bust darts, which create a stunning detail.

• As ever with Gertie’s patterns, the fit is impeccable. No fussing about to get te right fit; and the bust cup options are a God-send, making an FBA (or SBA) completely unnecessary.

Joan Wiggle dress pattern single negative

The only negative is the sizing, which is the bit off. I went for a size 4 according to my measurement and had to take quite a lot of ease off the sides – not a disaster but just a bit annoying.

Joan Wiggle dress: fabric recommendations

Gertie advises to use stable knits for the Joan Wiggle dress. Her own version of the high-neck dress is in Ponte Roma, so is mine and I would strongly advise to follow her lead. Ponte is super stable so very easy to sew. It is also thick enough the hide any humps and bumps (if like me, you refuse any form of shapewear).

That said, after a number of disappointing experience, I now avoid polyester Ponte and only go for the viscose version. Polyester Ponte piles at every wash, so your lovey dress very quickly becomes a rag – infuriating when you have lovingly sewn it!

My Ponte comes from Croftmill and I could not be happier with the quality.

Conclusion

I am absolutely thrilled with this dress and now on a fabric hunt to make a deep red one – let me know if you have any leads…

Long time no see my sewing friends! Four months is probably the longest time I have ever been away from my beloved blog and I’ve really missed it. But life has been incredibly busy and many things have kept me away from writing and sewing. But here I am!

These are my last winter makes: two dresses, made on the basis of the V8630 pattern, with a few modifications:

Using the V8630 patterns as my base for many dresses

Is it really the same pattern?

At first sight, you would not think these two dresses are based on the same pattern. Let me confuse you even more by showing you the enveloppe of this pattern…

… and the various dresses I have in the past made using it…

So we’re officialy on version 8 of this pattern, and they all look extremely different. Incredible, isn’t it?

The most perfectly fitted bodice… for me

The joy of this pattern for me is that the bodice fits absolutely PERFECTLY: at the bust, at the shoulder, at the waist, at the back, everywhere is just made for me!!! Having tried many other dress patterns (and you know my love for dresses), I always come back to it when I want a 100% safe fit without the nightmare of FBAs and muslins.

Most pattern-drafting afficinados will recommend you find a perfect bodice pattern and play with it. However, I am actually quite bad at self-drafting, so I was initially reluctant to make modifications to patterns and I preferred to buy new. However, after several fitting nightmare, I realised than minor amounts of self-drafting – such as changing the shape of the neckline or adding a collar – were completelty achievable and a huge time saver versus fighting for the right fit.

For my new dresses, the changes I made to the inital pattern are tiny:

• for the blue dress, I centered the original collar to the middle and made it slightly less deep;

• for the purple and pink dress, I created a heart-shape neckline and removed the collar

And for both dresses, I used a full circle skirt and 3/4 sleeves with turn-ups, all directly from another of my beloved patterns, M7081 (zilions of versions on the blog, here, here, here, here, here, here and a few more…).

As for all the other versions of M8630, each blog article details the different modifications I have made – just click on each of the pictures above to get to the articles.

Brocade frenzy

Both dresses are sewn in brocade from Croftmill: the purple and pink is still available here;

… while the blue and silver is sadly out of stock.

I actually managed to match the lining of my pink Swing coat with my dress for a total Marvellous Mrs Maisel look – I just love it!

Conclusion

Definitely a lovely set of dresses which I really enjoyed wearing over the past few months. But I admit I am now very much looking foward to sewing for Spring! Lighter colours, lighter fabrics, here we come!