I discovered the V9075 jumpsuit while browsing for ideas for another jumpsuit, the famous Sirocco by Deer&Doe, which I’ve sewn and reviewed twice – here and here.

But Sirocco has a major advantage over any other jumpsuit: going to the loo is not an issue! While for V9075, I really wonder how on earth someone can get undressed unaided: the zip is a the back and the neckline is very high up, the fabric is non-stretch, how on earth does that work?

I considered several solutions to make the jumpsuit more user-friendly: moving the zip to the side – not great with sleeves; making a lower back neckline for the top – but still quite a bit of gymnastics needed to undo the zip; using a sleeveless top pattern – but weird with such long, chunky bottoms. Eventually I realised that what I liked most in the pattern was the bottom culottes, not necessarily the overall jumpsuit. So here we go: let me introduce to you the jumpsuit that never was.

My key takeways from this pattern are the following:

• As usual for Vogue patterns, I went a size down versus the enveloppe indications: I chose size 10 instead of 12 (I am a 8 UK/ 2 US/ 36 French for ready-to-wear). Beware the sizing!!!
• I lowered the crotch to that of the largest size on the pattern (16 I think), as I had read in pattern reviews that it was definitely a problem with this jumpsuit. No other alterations and it fits very well this way.
• To finish the top of the culottes (instead of joining them to a bodice), I drew a facing which I interlined and then added a side zip (I am not big fan of back zips, for an obscure reason).
• I particularly love the waist pleats, which emphasise the contrast between the very fitted waist and the large legs and create an utterly flattering silhouette, particularly from the back.

My only disappointment is in my choice of fabric. Instead of the rather rigid cotton from Fabrics Galore I picked, I could have chosen a slightly looser fabric to make the culottes a bit more floaty. Anyway…

However this fabric works really well for the top I chose to match with the culottes. This is another pattern from the McCall/Vogue company, this time M7542 – a very simple top, very well fitted thanks to the cup options, and with different options of funky sleeves, which I discovered thanks to Emily Halmann’s hugely inspiring blog. I chose option C, which I love with a passion – those pleated sleeves, I just can’t have enough of them!!! I absolutely adore this top pattern, I have already made a dress out of it and I am fully planning to use it many more times! Here is size 8, C cup.

So in the end I managed to keep the jumpsuit spirit, but in a much more manageable way. I am the only one having being hesitations about the practicality of jumpsuits? Sometimes I wonder…

After my lemon version of M6696, reviewed in details here, I definitely absolutely vitally needed a plainer version. But as you’ve probably guessed, my vision of plain is not exactly common view, I the lady who never ever wear jeans on the school run. So here is M6696 number 2, in a blue chambray but enhanced by silver piping and sparkly buttons – why not?

I used the pattern pieces of my lemon dress and made no changes whatsoever – so the size is 8/ C bust cup, instead of the 12 recommended by the pattern, and the fit is absolutely perfect. Each time I work on these Vogue or McCall pattern, I really wonder why the sizing is so completely off – it does not matter when you’re aware of it, but I’m convinced it is a massive put-off if you don’t know. Anyway, for me, perfect fit everywhere!

For this dress, I used a blue cotton chambray from Fabrics Galore – a beauty of a fabric, somewhat on the thick side hence perfect for mid-season (with sleeves) but not for full summer. To counter the schoolgirl effect, I added silver piping along each side of the button plackets and some sparkly buttons. The end-result is well beyond my expectations: I am absolutely thrilled with this dress. Next time however, I will add the piping on each side of the superior button placket instead, as here they do not stay parallel when the fabric pulls. Oh well…

In any case I am overly pleased with this dress, even more so because it is so different from its lemon sister. There is no doubt a third version will be sewn for the autumn, with three-quarter sleeves this time!

As I told you in my previous article, I did make a second navy version of the M7081 dress, pretty much immediately after the first coral one. So here it is, in a little compare and contrast exercise with its twin sister!

I reviewed this pattern in full details here, so I’m not going to do it again – in summary I absolutely love everything about it: the wrapped bodice, the belt, the full-circle skirt! I also love the fact that it is so versatile, as a 3/4 sleeve version is offered, so a winter version will probably appear in my wardrobe at some stage.

The main difference between the two dresses is, quite obviously, the fabric – I chose spots for both dresses, quite a funny coincidence which I did not even notice until putting the pictures ! Both fabrics come from my beloved Fabrics Galore. But the coral fabric is a lightweight cotton, which despite its weight has the inherent rigidity of cotton; while the navy fabric is a viscose (I think, although could also be polyester) fabric, quite heavy and with a wonderful drape. I was convinced that a drape fabric would lead to a much better result with this dress but the result is not so clear-cut – each fabric has is pros and cons.

If you have eagle yes, you will have noticed two minor changes between the coral and the navy dress. First, I added a few cm at the belt, to have more ease – but I think it was a mistake as the dress does not sit so well on the hips. Second, I had to substantially shorten the skirt of the navy dress, after a bit of a hemming disaster… Oh well…

Appart for that, the pictures speak for themselves. I find the bodice nicer in the cotton fabric, as the pleats are very neat, while the navy version has somewhat of a saggy boobs effect. But maybe the piping helps – I did not add piping to the navy version for fear of pattern overload!

I also find that the back sits better in the coral version, but that’s probably more related to the tighter belt than to the fabric. To be honest, I actually quite like both version from the back…

But the most striking difference is in the circle skirt. In cotton, it does look much fuller, due to the rigidity of the fabric and also to the fact that I had to line the skirt. In viscose, the skirt drapes marvellously, especially when in movement. I actually love both equally.

The only think I disliked was hemming the viscose. I initially used the same method than for the cotton, using bias tape sewn on one side with the machine and on the other side by hand (don’t ask how many hours it took!). But then the bias created too much weight, or I hadn’t let my fabric rest enough, or both, and my hem ended up completely uneven. So I had to remove the bias tape, cut back my skirt to an even level, and then I did a machine hem because at this stage I had lost all patience!

This little accident appart, I am very pleased with both dresses. They are light and pretty, so I’m sure I’ll get a lot of use from them… when the sun comes back!

My idea to take pictures of this dress as soon as the sun came out was definitely a good one! It was two weeks ago and since then, I haven’t been able to wear any of my newly-sewn summer dresses at all because it was far too cold, so frustrating!!!

So this one is M7081 – a dress with a mock-wrap bodice and a full circle skirt, joined by quite a large belt.

I love everything about this style: the pleats of the front bodice, which replace the bust darts and make the wrap fall perfectly into place; the belt, which creates a very neat joint between bodice and skirt; and the circle skirt, my favourite of all skirt shapes! (in case you hadn’t noticed…)

For once, this is not a Vogue Custom Fit pattern but pretty close, as Vogue and McCall are the same company. There is no bust cup options but I thought I could get away without any FBA thanks to the folds in the bodice  – under close inspection I really should have bothered, because the front belt is slightly pulled upward. But nothing to make me lose sleep! This is such a straightforward make that I actually did not use the instructions, which I would usually do when I sew a new style.

I made a few minor changes to the pattern:

–  I added piping all around the belt and the neckline. For the belt it was very easy, as it is lined inside, so I just had to add my piping between the two pieces of fabric. For the neckline, I saw the piping in place then finished with bias tape.

– I did not add a shirt collar, I found it unnecessary on a summer dress.

– I lined the skirt, as my fabric was slightly see-through.

The hardest thing with Vogue and McCall patterns, in my opinion, is to get the sizing right – the envelope indications are way too large, always! But once you’ve worked out how many sizes you need to go down, I find their sizing very consistent. So for me, the envelope tells me I’m a 12, but I always cut an 8 at the shoulders, going to 10 at the waist – this gives me a perfect fit without any adjustment (except of the bust when I bother).

The fabric is a lightweight cotton from my favourite fabric shop in London: Fabrics Galore, so well worth the trip North to South London! My last trip of a month ago was a huge success, with 5 garments sewn from the fabrics I purchased then! My philosophy towards fabric buying has changed a lot recently: instead of buying in bulk, putting in a cupboard and forgetting about it, I try to use the fabric I buy quickly after purchase. I’ve noticed my tastes change quite a lot with fabric, as they do with clothes, so I will most often not feel like sewing a fabric I adored the year before.

Philosophical considerations appart, I am thrilled with this dress. It is light and fresh for summer days but still with a structured shapes. A second one is already sewn… Naughty me!