Lately and very surprisingly, I’ve had a 1960’s revival obsession. Bye bye adjusted bodices and circle skirts, all I want is shift dresses. Here is the first of a (long) series.

A 1960’s shift dress, why?

If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you’ll know I’m a 1950’s girl at heart. Give me a very adjusted bodice, a very voluminous skirt and a Dior Bar jacket and I’m happy! Today’s outfit, all sewn by yours truly, could not be more to the point…

So why a 1960’s shift then? In all honesty, solely for matching purposes. My BFF recently started working in a second-hand designer clothes shop, and thanks to her talents I purchased this absolute beauty of a coat – Prada, wool, so comfy, so perfect for the British spring.

But nothing in my wardrobe to match it, can you believe? Obviously I had to remedy this!

Simplicity 1609 pattern review

I now LOVE buying patterns on Vinted

My other new obsession is buying sewing pattern on Vinted. You can find loads of vintage (and also non vintage) patterns, at very affordable price, and most often unused. So before sewing this dress, I had already amassed quite an extensive collection of 1960’s vintage patterns…

But I actually chickened out of sewing vintage, as I know from the experience of this shirt that sizing can be a bit unpredictable. So I opted for re-edited vintage (also bought for a bargain on Vinted, widely reviewed and highly praised on SewingPatternReview.com.

What are Simplicity Jiffy patterns?

S1609 is part of the Simplicity Jiffy range, which according to my very extensive research on Vinted (hum hum) has been around for ages. These patterns are basically supposed to be easy-peasy, with minimal pattern pieces, as few as possible technical points and limited need for fitting.

And S1609 definitely fitted these criteria: two main pattern pieces (one front, on back – then obviously you need to use sleeve and neck facings); an invisible zip to fit at the back; and just bust fitting – which meant a FBA (full bust adjustment) for me.

FBA my main challenge

This dress was an absolute delight to sew and the fit is truly very good – just loose enough at the front to create a trapeze shape, but well fitted at the back so that it does not look like a potato bag…

I used a size 10, as I always do for Vogue/ McCall/ Butterick/ Simplicity and it fitted perfectly… except for the bust! I am a 32E/ 85E and I always, always need a FBA. I basically needed to add 2.5cm, which I put all in the side bust dart (no way I was touching the waist dart), here is a picture of the resulting front pattern piece.

I recently found this very detailed guide for bust adjustments and it has been a God-send, I strongly recommend it to anybody who has to fight this battle.

Other changes to the pattern

Other than the FBA, I made a few other changes to the pattern:

• I shortened substantially the dress to make it a mini, the initial length was terribly unflattering for me.

• I added trapeze-shaped sleeves, using the ones from a vintage pattern photographed above (Simplicity 7914). I also added cuffs and a gold piping – let be wild!

• I entirely lined the dress, as my fabric (a beautiful light wool crepe) was slightly see-true. And wool in any case, which I cannot stand on bare skin.

Conclusion

This is a great basic pattern for a shift dress, which I will definitely re-use widely. And it is perfect to wear with my new coat so all boxes ticked. I am delighted!

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• Sewing a maxi bubble skirt