Let’s surf on this incredible wave of motivation and continue the presentation of my summer dresses! More border print, more palm trees, but a different pattern this time:

Pattern Used: I used M8211, which I had already sewn three times: twice in the sleeveless version here and here, twice in the puff sleeves version here. I had loved my first sleeveless version (with the long skirt) so much that I was very keen to reiterate – it only took my three years!

Sizing: size 10 for my UK 8/ FR 36/ US 2, this is my standard size for Vogue/Butterick/ McCall’s/ Simplicity patterns, despite the size chart telling me I should be a 12/14. I am an E cup and did not need an FBA, the bodice front offers ample room for whatever size.

Level of difficulty: this is an extremely easy dress to sew, the bodice is really straightforward in the sleeveless version (less so in the puff sleeve version as you have to fiddle with elastic) .

Fabric used: a lightweight cotton with a gorgeous border print, purchased from Stofaholic on Instagram. Tatiania sources the most gorgeous designer fabrics, well worth the import trouble all the way from Denmark!

Changes to the pattern: for the bodice, I removed some fabric at the back as the top was slightly sagging (the waist was perfect). The skirt is self drafted, once again rectangles of fabric shirred at the waist, the keep the perfect border pattern intact.

Love rating: so pretty and comfy to wear on hot summer days! I am very pleased.

Hot on the heels of the D&G-inspired summer dress, here come her little sister: the border print dress. Having figured out pattern placement with my previous dress, I could not help sewing exactly the same dress in a different fabric… Typical!

Pattern Used: for the bodice, view A of Simplicity 8645 (S8645), which is a 1950’s vintage re-edited top pattern. For the skirt I simply used two gathered rectangles (fabric width x length required, around 90cm here). I much prefer circle skirts to gathered one, but the gathered option in the only one that works with a border fabric like this one.

Sizing: size 10 for my UK 8/ FR 36/ US 2, this is my standard size for Vogue/Butterick/ McCall’s/ Simplicity patterns, despite the size chart telling me I should be a 12/14. I am an E cup and did not need an FBA.

Level of difficulty: easy but a bit of patience required as the bodice is entirely lined.

Fabric used: a lightweight cotton with a gorgeous border print, found on bennytex.fr. I find border print fabric very difficult to source in UK and France (much easier in the US), so I always get a bit overexcited when I find one!

Changes to the pattern: for the bodice I replaced the Peter Pan collar by a self-drafted scarf collar. I made not other changes to the pattern. The skirt is self drafted but frankly no rocket science here. I placed an invisible zip at the back, I did a bit of pattern matching for the bodice but not for the skirt.

Love rating: maybe sewing the exact same design as my D&G-inspired dress was not necessary, but this dress is very pretty and lovely to wear. The pattern is more casual so I tend to wear it in the day rather than to go out.

Clearly my sewing has been more regular than my blogging lately. With the summer nearly over, I am well overdue a review of my latest makes. So let’s get started with a dress I am so proud of: my Dolce&Gabbana-inspired dress.

This dress is directly inspired from a dress by Dolce&Gabbana, which I first spotted on the amazing Instagram account WhatPeopleAreWearing…

… and also screen-shot from the D&G website at the time.

So clearly when the perfect fabric turned up at SelvedgeAndBolts, I immediately ordered as much as possible (4m I think), to allow room for pattern placement.

Pattern placement was indeed the big challenge of this dress. I pondered for ages on how to tackle this… until I got a lightbulb moment: just do what the designer did! And then everything became much easier.

Pattern Used: for the bodice, Simplicity 8645 (S8645), which is a 1950’s vintage re-edited top pattern. There are 4 different top versions (a bargain for a single pattern), I made version A but replaced the Peter Pan collar by a neck scarf. For the skirt I simply used two gathered rectangles (fabric width x length required, around 90cm here). I much prefer circle skirts to gathered one, but the gathered option in the only one that works with patterned fabric like this one.

Sizing: size 10 for my UK 8/ FR 36/ US 2, this is my standard size for Vogue/Butterick/ McCall’s/ Simplicity patterns, despite the size chart telling me I should be a 12/14. I am an E cup and did not need an FBA, but this is often the case when the bust ease comes from gathers, they are simply more forgiving than darts on princess seams.

Level of difficulty: easy but a bit of patience required as the bodice is entirely lined.

Fabric used: a lightweight cotton in the most perfect Dolce&Gabbana-like print, with gorgeous vivid colours.

Changes to the pattern: for the bodice I replaced the Peter Pan collar by a self-drafted scarf collar. I should have raised the collar line and decreased the bodice length by a few cm but did not and it is not the end of the word – next time. The skirt is self drafted but frankly no rocket science here. I placed an invisible zip on the side, not to interrupt the fabric pattern.

Love rating: I am extremely pleased with this dress, it is very elegant yet comfy to wear on summer evenings.

The fact that it is not a dress invites a celebration in itself! Can you believe this? I have just sewn not one, not two but three shirts, all in silks of different colours.

Using a true vintage pattern for the first time

It is no secret that I adore the 1950’s style. I have been using re-edited patterns from this era quite a bit recently (mostly by Butterick). However I had never sawn using a truly vintage pattern. I had little interest in hunting them down on e-Bay or Etsy, paying a hefty price, only to find out that the fit was a disaster. I am boring like that…

However, as part of my recent Vinted addiction, I have discovered that not only can I buy the most stunning unworn designer heels for a fraction of their initial price. I actually have an entire theory on the second hand high heel shoe market (but here is not the place ). But I can also buy sewing patterns!! Similarly unused, similarly cheap. Oh God, the beginning of the end….

In any case, I had been looking for a shirt with a bow collar and here it was! Perfectly adjusted, looking extremely easy with very few pattern pieces… For £5, how could I resist? And how cute is this envelope?

I made a toile to check the sizing and I just had to add 2cm on each side… and then nothing else!! I am a size 10 for Vogue/ Butterick/ McCall so I think either 12 or 14 vintage is what I need. The shirt is very adjusted but it exactly how I wanted it! For the black one I mispositioned my buttons so will have to revisit this when I am brave enough…

Butterick Vintage 7396: full review

• Sizing: I used a bust 30/ size 12 for my UK 8/ FR 36/ US 2 and Vogue/Butterick/ McCall’s 10. I had to add 2cm on each side and I am very happy with the adjusted fit that resulted. I am an E cup and did not need an FBA.
• Level of difficulty: easy peasy, 4 pattern pieces (5 when I changed the sleeves), you just need to be precise with the darts (2 at the front, one at the back).
• Fabric used: for all 3 shirts, I used a lightweight silk dupioni and I love it! I used a microtex needle but otherwise no change to my sewing routine, this thickness of silk is very easy to manage.
• Changes to the pattern: I used the puff sleeves from M8197; and I did French seams throughout, for a more polished look for the inside of the garment.
• Love rating: extremely high, this will be my go-to shirt pattern for the foreseeable future. I cannot wait to make winter versions…

And a bit more photo bombing…