Sewing a Dior-like dress using the V9253/V1735 pattern

After many versions of the V9253 pattern where I made hardly any changes to the original, here is a very different one. With longer sleeves, a waistband and a full-circle ankle-length skirt, it is exactly what I had in mind!

So many versions of this pattern in my wardobe

V9253 has been an immensely successful pattern, so much so that it has been re-edited under a new name, V1735 – very confusing in my view but never mind.

I have been a fan myself and have sewn numerous version, for all seasons: Spring here, Summer here and here, Autumn here and Winter here.

I have reviewed each dress in details (if you follow the links) but here are my main conclusions:

• Sizing is spot on (my usual Vogue size 10 for my UK 8/ US 2/ FR 36) but the bodice is ample so you will probably not need an FBA (I am an E cup and the one I initially made was really not necessary).
• Choice if fabric is key – anything stiff will not work (like my white and red version), anything with drape (whatever the weight) will.
• The dress is way nicer with its belt – or anything that marks the waist.
• The cleveage is very low and you can extend the front bodice to cross it at the front, but I do believe it removes a kew charming design aspect of this dress. Wearing nice lingerie our underlayers is a better option in my view.

Hacking the V9253 pattern to reproduce a Dior dress

I had never dared making drastic adjustments to this pattern until I came across this beautiful dress in a Dior shop.

I was very keen to buy it but my husband (who, don’t be mistaken, is always very open to my clothes purchases) wisely mentionned that I had something very similar in my me-made wardrobe – which had not even crossed my mind!!!

So this summer, I had a go at reproducing this dress and the first version came out pretty spot on! – although I have no more pictures of it!

After such a success, I was bound to make another version. And what best that a Dior fabric for it? This one is pure silk and it has the most gorgeous jungle Toile de Jouy drawings.

Just 4 easy changes to the original pattern

• I created an 8cm wide waistband (plus seam allowance), by following the waist shape of the original skirt from the papattern. It is easier to do if you have already sewn the dress but you can also work on the pattern pieces.

• I lenghtened the sleeves the the maximum length my fabric would allow me while folded in 2 – I think something like 12cm; and I added a 4cm wide sleeve band (for each band, a rectangle of 8 + 2×1.5cm sewing margin = 11cm on one side and 25 + 2×1.5cm = 28cm on the other side, but this late measurement depends on the size of your arm where the sleeve ends).

• I replaced the skirt from the pattern with a very big one. I simply used 3 lenghts of fabric (nearly 90cm each) and I gathered the top. I would definitely have preferred a full circle skirt, which is what I used for my white dress. But I’ve learnt from my mistakes: these just do not work with patterned fabric.

• I removed the bust darts and replaced them with gathers.

Conclusion

And here we are! One of my favourite dresses to wear so far this Spring, and it perfectly fit in my black and white obsession!