Having filled my Spring wardrobe with flared dresses (see here, here and here for my most recent projects), it was definitely time to sew a flared coat to match the lot! Here it is with B5966– although this one is more of a toile than the finished project!

I am a complicated person, I know. Not only did the coat need to be flared, it also had to have the right cup option (D/E in my case) – I hate FBAs (Full Bust Alterations) with a passion and I did not want to end-up with a tight bust! So Butterick B5966 was pretty much my only option to be honest. As described on the enveloppe, it is fitted and flared with a fly button closing – that would do!

I chose view C, which is the collarless, 3/4 length option. I omitted the pockets, the shoulder pads and the belt (I actually made a belt, but given my fabric it was too chunky); but otherwise made no major alterations to the pattern.

This coat is truly a love-hate case study. I really like the end-result, in particular the beautiful curves at the back.

But I really disliked making it, for the several reasons:

• The sizing is completely mad, way too large! My measurements indicated a size 12/ C cup, I chose a size 10 C cup and still had to take off 1.5cm out of the back and side seams – basically reverting to a size 8. This took ages and drove me completely crazy! The only positive point was the bust fit, which was perfect.
• The quality of the inside is quite disappointing. There is no proper bottom facing (you use the hemline fold); and no back facing whatsoever ; and there are no specific pattern pieces for the lining, so no fold for ease included. My first and only me-made coat was Ernest by Republique du Chiffon and all these details were impeccable, so I was quite disappointed to end-up with a lower quality finish here.
• The pattern instructions are not great. Here again B5966 fares poorly against Ernest, where he instructions were crystal-clear. The fly button closing took me a LOOONNNG time to understand!
• And lastly I don’t like the visible stitching of the fly button closing, it completely disrupts the otherwise perfectly clean line of the coat. I am actually thinking of taking it out.

For those among you that love a look at the details, here are closer views of the hidden button holes:

the perfectly-fitted princess seams:

and the full lining:

As for the fabric, it was gifted to me by Minerva Fabrics and is still available here. It is a medium-weight scuba, perfect for a structured garment such as a coat, a jacket or a pencil skirt. The fabric is made of two layers: a plain white scuba underneath; and a metallic gold net on top – do not fear, they stay firmly attached to each other when cut, sewn and washed (I was a bit worried initially). And I nearly forgot – being a scuba it does not fray! No overlocking needed, hurrah! This fabric is really easy to work with.

As for its look, the Minerva’s website gives a very good idea of the effect of this fabric: it really shimmers in the light. Some of my pictures caught this effect but not all.

Overall I think I will use this coat sparingly, for nights out most likely – and I view it more as a toile than as a completed garment to be honest! I am very keen to try an make it again though, in a plainer fabric and using the Ernest coat finishes inside!

In summary :

• Pattern: Butterick B5966, which is described as “fitted and flared lined coat with shoulder pads, princess seams, sides pockets, fly-button closing”. It has the huge advantage of bust cup options, so you don’t have to make the adjustments yourself to get a perfect bust fit!
• Fabric: I used a medium-weight glittery gold scuba from Minerva Craft, available here. Definitely not for a day outfit though – and that’s from the women who does all of her winter school runs in a fur coat with high heels!!! 
• Sewing level: if you are a beginner looking to make your first coat, I would definitely not recommend this model, the explanations are a bit too light and the finish disappointing – coats should not be like that!
• Love level: I adore the shape but I am not a fan of this specific coat, I definitely need to find a plainer fabric to make another one!

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