The Glittery Coat
Having filled my Spring wardrobe with flared dresses (see here, here and here for my most recent projects), it was definitely time to sew a flared coat to match the lot! Here it is with B5966– although this one is more of a toile than the finished project!
![B5966-butterick-coat-in-gold-scuba](https://sixmignons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/0E6EAF4A-80D1-45FF-AACA-317D2E61F9FF-767x1024.jpeg)
![B5966-butterick-coat-in-gold-scuba](https://sixmignons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/50168FF2-CEF3-4F3C-90C3-C75B4C13D33C-768x1024.jpeg)
I am a complicated person, I know. Not only did the coat need to be flared, it also had to have the right cup option (D/E in my case) – I hate FBAs (Full Bust Alterations) with a passion and I did not want to end-up with a tight bust! So Butterick B5966 was pretty much my only option to be honest. As described on the enveloppe, it is fitted and flared with a fly button closing – that would do!
![](https://sixmignons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/0C6C5D10-694B-42FF-82A4-D36F71D386B8-1024x1024.jpeg)
I chose view C, which is the collarless, 3/4 length option. I omitted the pockets, the shoulder pads and the belt (I actually made a belt, but given my fabric it was too chunky); but otherwise made no major alterations to the pattern.
This coat is truly a love-hate case study. I really like the end-result, in particular the beautiful curves at the back.
![curved-back-fitted-coat-B5966](https://sixmignons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/F088E3FB-C8A7-4EE5-84E0-351711A2CEA1-769x1024.jpeg)
![curved-back-fitted-coat-B5966](https://sixmignons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/2D33757C-8ACC-49D1-A630-9CDA87F023DC-768x1024.jpeg)
But I really disliked making it, for the several reasons:
- The sizing is completely mad, way too large! My measurements indicated a size 12/ C cup, I chose a size 10 C cup and still had to take off 1.5cm out of the back and side seams – basically reverting to a size 8. This took ages and drove me completely crazy! The only positive point was the bust fit, which was perfect.
- The quality of the inside is quite disappointing. There is no proper bottom facing (you use the hemline fold); and no back facing whatsoever ; and there are no specific pattern pieces for the lining, so no fold for ease included. My first and only me-made coat was Ernest by Republique du Chiffon and all these details were impeccable, so I was quite disappointed to end-up with a lower quality finish here.
- The pattern instructions are not great. Here again B5966 fares poorly against Ernest, where he instructions were crystal-clear. The fly button closing took me a LOOONNNG time to understand!
- And lastly I don’t like the visible stitching of the fly button closing, it completely disrupts the otherwise perfectly clean line of the coat. I am actually thinking of taking it out.
![B5966-butterick-coat-in-gold-scuba](https://sixmignons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/56C7F160-6F08-413C-B072-F2E0B74460BB-768x1024.jpeg)
For those among you that love a look at the details, here are closer views of the hidden button holes:
![B5966-butterick-coat-in-gold-scuba-concelead-buttonholes](https://sixmignons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/F046B72B-1622-4A95-9D75-603F6DD2A669-769x1024.jpeg)
the perfectly-fitted princess seams:
![B5966-butterick-coat-in-gold-scuba-princess seams](https://sixmignons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/36CC3B42-073C-4257-8F1F-ABA1D73F6044-769x1024.jpeg)
and the full lining:
![B5966-butterick-coat-in-gold-scuba-fully-lined](https://sixmignons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/C73B3E88-0A18-4D88-8DB5-1C3742976EF6-768x1024.jpeg)
As for the fabric, it was gifted to me by Minerva Fabrics and is still available here. It is a medium-weight scuba, perfect for a structured garment such as a coat, a jacket or a pencil skirt. The fabric is made of two layers: a plain white scuba underneath; and a metallic gold net on top – do not fear, they stay firmly attached to each other when cut, sewn and washed (I was a bit worried initially). And I nearly forgot – being a scuba it does not fray! No overlocking needed, hurrah! This fabric is really easy to work with.
As for its look, the Minerva’s website gives a very good idea of the effect of this fabric: it really shimmers in the light. Some of my pictures caught this effect but not all.
![B5966-butterick-coat-in-gold-scuba-beautiful back](https://sixmignons.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/A92ED030-9B6B-4292-926F-9235556A0CF0-768x1024.jpeg)
Overall I think I will use this coat sparingly, for nights out most likely – and I view it more as a toile than as a completed garment to be honest! I am very keen to try an make it again though, in a plainer fabric and using the Ernest coat finishes inside!
In summary :
- Pattern: Butterick B5966, which is described as “fitted and flared lined coat with shoulder pads, princess seams, sides pockets, fly-button closing”. It has the huge advantage of bust cup options, so you don’t have to make the adjustments yourself to get a perfect bust fit!
- Fabric: I used a medium-weight glittery gold scuba from Minerva Craft, available here. Definitely not for a day outfit though – and that’s from the women who does all of her winter school runs in a fur coat with high heels!!!
- Sewing level: if you are a beginner looking to make your first coat, I would definitely not recommend this model, the explanations are a bit too light and the finish disappointing – coats should not be like that!
- Love level: I adore the shape but I am not a fan of this specific coat, I definitely need to find a plainer fabric to make another one!
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