For once I didn’t sew only dresses this summer, I also ventured into their trousers equivalent: the jumpsuit. And since I am a big lover of summer whites (even more so since I discovered Vanish Oxi Action to remove sun cream stains), my summer jumpsuit had to be white.

Pattern: I used the McCall7908/ M7908 pattern, which I had already sewn (three times) and reviewed here four years ago (how time flies).

I had gone through a fitting ordeal then so I was keen to reuse this pattern ad-nauseam. But I only got the pattern out of its envelope this winter for 3 winter versions (long sleeves, long legs) – I seem to only sew this pattern in bulk! Do not hold you breath for pictures, my blogging apnoea means I took exactly none!

Sizing: size 10 for my UK 8/ FR 36/ US 2, this is my standard size for Vogue/Butterick/ McCall’s/ Simplicity patterns, despite the size chart telling me I should be a 12/14. However I made a HUGE number of adjustments to have this jumpsuit fit me properly, explained in details here. Jumpsuits are usually a minefield for me, as I have a long torso (and short legs, to my great despair), and this one was no exception.

Changes to the pattern: I made a large number of fitting adjustments: lengthening the torso by 3cm/ adding 1cm width at the hips/ slightly reducing the crotch length/ taking a bit of width off the back both at the trousers top and the bodice bottom (swayback adjustment). And then I lost weight after sewing my jumpsuit and it is now a bit too loose but never mind! The other change I made was to replace the exposed font zip with a concealed one, I never quite understood how to neatly sew the exposed zip, and in any case I find a concealed one much more elegant. Lastly I changed the neckline from a V to a round shape.

Level of difficulty: I would classify this pattern as intermediate due to the fitting struggle and the obscure installation of the exposed zip.

Fabric used: I used a lightweight denim-like fabric in a glorious white cotton from Croftmill, which is still available here. It has a bit of stretch, which I would strongly advise for this jumpsuit despite the instructions advocating plain-vanilla woven fabric.

Likes: there are quite a few things I really like about this jumpsuit (which, given it is my 7th version, I am sure you had guessed):

• I really like the shape, with its fitted bodice and waist and its 7/8th wide leg trouser;.
• It is super easy to put on and off, thanks to its long front zip.
• Once you have worked out all the adjustments you need to make, it is a very quick and easy make. The only technical difficulty is the zip and here I would strongly recommend replacing the exposed zip by a concealed one.
• This pattern has really nice details, such as the visible front zip (if you keep it) and the pockets.
• It offers bust cup options, which I am always a huge fan of as it prevents me from having to make a FBA.

Dislikes: unfortunately I don’t think I have had so many dislike for a pattern for a while (that said I nearly solely make dresses so they are not the same challenge):

• The fitting effort needed is a terrible hassle and the fact that the torso is so short is just really annoying.
• The instructions are completely hopeless for the insertion of the zip. If you follow them you should cut into your fabric right at the beginning of the process, risking the fabric to tear when you try on the fit before installing the zip. I still haven’t understood them…
• The pockets do not align to the bodice seams in all sizes. For my size 10 it just about worked (and I think the envelope picture much be in a similar size). However if you look at the illustrative drawings and if you read bigger size reviews, the alignment does not work – huge pity! I would definitely advise to redraw the pockets to reach alignment.
• The order of assembly in the instructions is not very helpful for a garment which requires so much fitting. You are supposed to first put the top together, then the bottom, then join them together; and you topstitch as you go. I assembled this jumpsuit (and all its previous versions) in a completely different way : 1/ join back top and bottom – check the darts alignment; 2/ join front top and bottom – check the darts alignment; 3/ join back and front together – check fit and then topstitch; 4/ install zip.

Conclusion: despite all my reservations I really like this jumpsuit. I’ve worn it loads over the past few months and it has made me really keen to expand my jumpsuit sewing skills – I just need to brace myself for a lot of fitting work…

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• Summer sewing: another day, another palm tree dress